Mount Fuji from the fifth station was completely clear on our visit, lucky I know, but absolutely worth the early start with kids in tow. Kyoto's temples the following day gave everyone a much calmer close to the trip.

Shibuya Crossing at night followed by Harajuku the next morning gave our girls the perfect dose of modern Japan before the temples took over. Kyoto's torii gate tunnel at Fushimi Inari a few days later felt like a completely different country.

Solid family route overall though our youngest struggled with how much walking some of the days demanded. Fushimi Inari and Dotonbori were still worth every tired leg by evening.

Kyoto stole the show for us, the torii gate tunnel was worth the whole trip on its own.

Fushimi Inari's endless torii gates left even our teenagers off their phones for once, properly moved by the whole climb. Miyajima's floating torii gate at high tide is exactly as magical as the photos promise, with deer wandering right up to the kids for snacks. Osaka's Dotonbori at dinnertime was pure sensory overload in the best possible way. By the time we reached Kyoto's quieter temples the contrast felt earned rather than jarring.

Four cities in nine nights sounded punishing but the bullet trains made it effortless for our family of five, and Hiroshima's Peace Memorial gave the kids a history lesson none of us will forget. Osaka's food scene the next day lifted the mood right back up.